Chickan embroidery or chickankari as it is popularly called is an attractive and delicate style of embroidery, which is enhanced through the use of a single color thread against the backdrop of a plethora of fine fabrics to choose from. This art form is believed to have been introduced by Nur Jehan, Mughal emperor Jahangir's wife, it is one of Lucknow's most famous textile decoration styles.

There are references to Indian Chikan work as early as 3rd century BC by Megasthenes, who mentioned the use of flowered muslins by Indians. There is also a tale that mentions how a traveler taught Chikankari to a peasant in return for water to drink. The name Chikan has been derived from the Persian word Chakin or Chikeen meaning a cloth wrought with needlework. This chikankari has brought a lot of peace and harmony and at most of the workshops Hindu as well as Muslim artists work under the same roof.

Lucknow, in Uttar Pradesh, in particular is the home of this mild, dignified style of embroidery. It is also known as "shadow work" as the embroidery is done from the back side of the fabric and the shadow forms patterns on the right side. It consists of 36 different stitches in which the major ones are called "Bakhiya" "Fanda" "Murri" "Bijli" "Pechni" "Ghans patti" "Ulti Jali", etc. in the local Lucknowi dialect.

Originally it was done on the surface of white translucent muslin cloth with white colored thread. But now a lot of experimentation is being practiced which involves embroidery on various pastel hues. This delicate hand embroidery on the soft pastel backgrounds gives chikankari its timeless appeal. The form of embroidery has been revived by a lot of social groups and amongst them the most famous one is SEWA. What is unique about SEWA events is that the craftswomen themselves participate and talk about their work.

It is indeed impossible to take your eyes off these beautiful linens with exquisite embroidery. It will take you to the romantic and delicate era of elegance that for some weird reason hasn't turned out-of-place even in today's modern era. A lot of designers are also reviving this art form and one cannot miss Muzaffar Ali and Meira Ali for their tremendous efforts in reviving this Mughal craft and Kaifi's NGO Mijwan, which is passionately run by Shabana Azmi, also reflects their love for this beautiful craft.

So, on your next visit to Lucknow I hope you are getting one of these magical works of the needle and thread for your own collection.